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One of the only good things the pandemic had to offer was more time working on your car project. According to NPD research, at-home DIY automotive projects led to a 14% increase in aftermarket sales.

As an aftermarket retailer, Original Air has seen purchases from all different age groups. We’ve also been getting an influx of questions on which chemicals we recommend using in your garage. These days, there are so many different chemicals online and in-store, they can make your head spin. Between adhesives, lubricants, cleaners, and penetrants, where should you start?

Our very own Orlando Anderson breaks down what he thinks are some of the best automotive chemicals you should always have in your garage.

Skipping the Heavy Hitters

In this article, we’ll be talking about automotive chemicals, but we’re skipping over some of the heavy hitters that most DIYers are familiar with. These consist of your essential fluids such as your oil, coolant, and windshield wiper fluid. They’re not only obvious but also unique to each vehicle.

The following items are more specific to DIY projects and things you’re doing with your hands to keep your classic looking sharp. We’ll discuss each product and why you want to have it handy in your garage rather than choosing a specific brand over another.

1. Basic Chassis Grease

I love having a tub of chassis grease somewhere in my garage. Once I first purchased it, I ended up reaching for it probably two to three times a week. I didn’t even know I needed it until I saw it on sale at O’Reilly’s. You can use something like this all the time.

I personally keep a paintbrush near it, so it’s easy to apply compared to a grease gun. However, if you have a grease gun, just fill it with the same grease. The point is, a tub keeps you from having to use the gun all the time.

2. Blue Threadlocker 

Next, keep a basic blue threadlocker around. Simply put, it’s essential to have if you’re assembling items that need to stay together. Your blue threadlocker is the most common threadlocker you’ll find, and it’s also the weakest. But know you don’t have to go to a red or a green one because blue threadlockers still hold most applications. Red and green end up only giving you more issues since they’re a lot more challenging to remove.

That being said, if you’re having issues taking apart something that’s been put together with a threadlocker, use heat. Lastly, remember if you need to take something apart that you assembled with a threadlocker, you should be able to. If you need to disassemble something that’s rusted solid, you’re going to have a hard time. Blue thread locker is easy to use, and it makes things go together correctly.

3. Dielectric or Silicone Grease

A simple dielectric grease or silicone grease is excellent with electrical connections such as a GM weather pack connector or anything with a gasket. It makes the gaskets assemble correctly and sit correctly without being pinched. This way, they’ll actually stay weather-tight and corrosion-resistant. So if you build two things that are pushed together, they don’t rust and end up giving you a poor connection.

This grease is a cheap and effective way to make sure all your electrical pieces will continue working for years.

4. WD-4O and PB Blaster

Next, we have a lubricant or WD-40 type of product. We also have a penetrating oil like PB Blaster. You don’t have to pick these specific brands since, between the two of them, the concept is the same.

I use WD-40 to keep things from sticking together, eroding, and displacing water. WD actually stands for water displacing. Something like this can help you get rid of water on parts like distributor caps.

We divided these into two categories because your PB blaster will get into the threads of something that is rusted. It can thus allow a fastener to break free.

They should not be used interchangeably and should each have their own place in your garage. You’re probably already going to have WD-40 lying around somewhere since it’s a great household item as well.

That being said, if you’re working on any classic, you’ll for sure need to have a penetrating oil somewhere in your garage. Find the one you like and stock up on it. I promise it’s going to make your life a lot easier.

5. Starting Fluid

Although these days it’s considered partially controversial, I like using starting fluids as a diagnostic tool. If I’m looking for a vacuum leak or something on a carbureted car, I can spray starting fluid around the base so it pulls in. I can either feel or hear the idle rise of the car because this is flammable.

Not all automotive aerosol chemicals are flammable. With your starting fluid, you’re going to definitely want to use it as a diagnostic tool. However, you can also use it for hard starting engines. We don’t recommend relying on it for that. However, it’s something worth keeping around and using sparingly.

6. White Lithium Grease

White lithium grease is another automotive chemical I recommend having around. Similar to your WD-40, it is a lubricant. But it’s a bit more permanent and used for metal-to-metal surfaces. Think about using it on door latches, door hinges, or even steering column components.

It’s plastic-safe, so if you happen to get it on something like a turn signal switch, it’s not going to be a huge concern. Plus, it doesn’t freeze, so if you live up north, putting something like this on door latches or inside a lock helps it function all winter.

7. Carburetor cleaner

Another product that works well in the winter is carburetor cleaner. The best thing about it is that it cuts through any junk that’s leftover in the carburetor. It also works as an excellent tool for removing oil from the exterior of some products. Just make sure you contain it as it drips off whatever project you’re working with.

Something like this can bring life back to the vehicle and help make it run again. If you're like me and rebuild a lot of carburetors, this tool is certainly something you’ll want to have laying around.

 8. Prep Sem Solve

Not many people keep a prep sem solve in their garage. However, I think it’s something that just makes sense. This is a wax and grease remover that prepares the surface for paint. If you don’t correctly prep a surface before you paint it, you can end up with many issues like adhesion or fisheyes. Prepsol eliminates those issues and makes sure you have a good clean surface for the paint to adhere to.

It’s also great for cleaning things off if you’re working with something with a lot of grease and needs to be clean. Prep-sol cuts through it while leaving the surface residue-free. I use it more often than I thought I would, even when I’m not painting anything since it’s such a great cleaning product.

 9.  Brake Clean

You’re more likely to find an empty break clean can in my garage than one that’s full. I’ve seen some people try to substitute carburetor cleaner for break clean and vise versa, but either way doesn’t work. Break clean doesn’t get rid of carburetor deposits nearly as well as carburetor cleaner can. Plus, carb clean doesn’t leave your break surfaces as clean as break clean does.

Know the formulations are different and thus yield different results, so make sure you get the proper automotive chemical for the job that you’re working on.

A couple of different types of break clean exist. You can find either a chlorinated style or a non-chlorinated style. The chlorinated tends to work better, but if you have environmental concerns or can’t find it due to limited availability, use the non-chlorinated.

  10. Engine Degreaser

An essential engine degreaser like Speed Clean from Driven Racing removes gunk and heavy grime from engine blocks, engine compartments, under chassis stuff, and rear axles especially. Before you go under the car to fix a leak, hose it down with some of this and wash it off. Then you can go under and do your work. Don’t try to work around the grease and grime and finally remove it halfway through the project. Make your life easier by starting with an engine degreaser.

Up until this point, everything I’ve talked about has been mainly for working on your classic. Now I’m going to list some items for keeping not only keep your classic clean but safe while driving.

11.   Glass cleaner

First, find a great glass cleaner and use it regularly. What’s the point of working on a muscle car if the windshield doubles as a fly swatter. When it comes to glass cleaners, I recommend Sprayway. I’ve gone through more than enough of them and found that a non-ammonia type cleaner works better by streaking less and leaving less residue.

12. Interior Cleaner

Lastly, we recommend using an interior cleaner or leather cleaner depending on the type of interior your car has. That’s going to make things more comfortable and looking better. If any of the above chemicals end up getting on your interior, use an interior cleaner like Meguilar’s Gold Glass leather cleaner to maintain that finish.

If you think there’s something we missed, leave a comment down below and let us know why it’s your garage go-to.

My high school-age son knew that his parents were suckers for old Mustangs.

When I met my wife in 1977, she was still driving her ‘65 maroon coupe that she had bought used in 1966. My son and I were driving home from shopping when he spotted a 1965 Mustang in front of somebody’s house, on the lawn adjacent to the road we were on. He urged me to stop and see if it was for sale. It was, and the owner and I agreed on a price.

It was my son’s car in high school until he ran it into a telephone pole during his senior year. Then it became mine. I fixed it up and found original AC parts (and a modern compressor and replacement hoses from your company). I proudly display the car at every local show I can attend. The car has been in the family since 2000.

Original Air components on the car include the condenser, switch, evaporator, control, and brackets.

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Named after a World War II fighter plane, the Mustang served as America's first pony car. Ford sold almost 4­00,000 within its first year of production. In fact, if you extend the model year, the number grows to 680,989. A Texas buyer reportedly even slept in a Ford showroom waiting for his check to clear so he could drive the new car home.

It's no question that the workman's Thunderbird was wildly successful and continues to be today. It's also no question that 1960 was a momentous year for making American history. Eisenhower announced he would take whatever steps necessary to defend Cuba. Both Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable finished filming their last movie, The Misfits. John F. Kennedy barely beat Nixon for the presidency. And Lee Iacocca was named VP and GM of Ford.

Without Iacocca, the Mustang wouldn't exist. But, even with him, Mustangs barely made it to the showroom.

The Legend of Lee Iacocca

Lee Iacocca was named the vice president and general manager of Ford Motor Company's Ford Division in 1960. Iacocca started working for Ford in 1946, moved up the leadership ladder, and assisted with the launch of the Falcon, the first compact car.

After receiving his promotion, Iacocca wanted to focus on a more energetic and youthful vehicle. Iacocca felt that the Ford company hit the 60's with a dull image despite electing a new youthful leader. With the election of JFK, the country was on a trend of youthful appeal. Iacocca noticed the demand for the young style not being met.

After introducing the Falcon in 1960, Ford threw around the idea of making a sportier version, but it just didn't fit the mold. Product Planner Dick Place agreed that the Falcon couldn't be turned into a sporty car. Doing so would be like "putting falsies on grandma."

The Fairlane Committee

Iacocca began to set up offsite meetings at the Fairlane Inn, which became known as the "Fairlane Committee." They strategized key elements they wanted for the car that would also apply to many different tastes of people. No more than 180 inches at around 2500 pounds, they settled on a short-deck low profile and a T Bird-style long hood while offering six-cylinder and V-8 engines.

While the Fairlane Committee continued meeting, Chevrolet boosted the sporty appeal with the Corvair Monza. Iacocca knew then that he wanted this next car to be everything opposite the Monza.

Three Strikes, You're In

Ford styling chief Eugene (Gene) Bordinat began giving proposals to Henry Ford, which were soundly rejected, one after another. Finally, after half a dozen models and a two-week deadline, Iacocca picked two more designs; the sleek "Stiletto" and the "Cougar." With the "Stiletto" turning out too expensive to develop, Iacocca chose the "Cougar" model by David Ash.

More finalized proposals were sent over to Henry Ford yet were rejected still. Iacocca ended up having to meet with Ford to get him to look at the proposals more thoroughly. After a tentative approval from Ford, Iacocca still had to jump through corporate hoops.

With three strikes against him, it seemed like the Mustang would never see the light of day:

1. Iacocca had to convince fiscally conservative leadership to invest in a much younger market.
2. Said leadership was still reeling after the embarrassing failure of the Edsel.
3. They had already set aside $250 million for the regular 1965 Ford line.

Yet somehow, on September 10, 1962, Iacocca walked out of the meeting with a modest blessing of $40 million to design and engineer the sports car.

The rest is history

They scheduled to manufacture the first Mustang at the Dearborn plant on March 9, 1964. With 303,408 units built, Mustang would set all-time industry records in 1964, followed by two straight years of almost 600,000 units each.

Lee Iacocca built his legacy on the monumental success of the Mustang. But, even with a long distinguished career of success and failure, he is forever remembered for producing America's most popular classic car.

Do you have stories you'd like to share of your Mustang? Submit your reader ride here for a chance to be shared on Original Air's blog and social media. Original Air also has upgrade kits for Mustang, such as the 66 Mustang A/C Performance Upgrade Kit 6 Cyl. STAGE-3. See all of our Mustang products here.

Hi, my name is Brad. I have a 1968 Mustang with a 302 V8. The car a been in the family since my Great Grandma purchased it new from the dealer.

When I was a kid, my Grandpa and I would have a lot of great times in it together. We would go get breakfast, go to car shows, or a ride to the mountain. I would help him with washing and waxing the car.

In 1997, I was able to purchase the Mustang from my Grandma and have been restoring the car ever since. My last project was to install the air conditioning, and it looks great and blows cold.

Original Air components on it include the condenser, hoses, compressor, switch, drier, evaporator, and control.

One of our staff members used the pandemic to teach his grandson how to drive shift in his 1966 Pontiac GTO. This was his first time getting to sit in a car older than 2008. Instead of being puzzled by the best column shift around, he focused his attention on trying to work the cassette player and choke.

Younger generations know all the great photography hacks and their way around every social media. However, if you ask them about a crank window, they might start scratching their heads. Thankfully the number of automotive projects increased during the pandemic, giving a good deal of twenty-something-year-old car enthusiasts a chance to take a deep dive into car history. Here is a list of throwback car features young folks can never appreciate.

Crank Windows

On a hot day driving down the highway, crank windows can be a pain to use. They require a firm grip and some serious elbow grease. Crank windows were standard up until the late 1980s. By 2008, power windows became so common that automakers stopped making crank windows. With the rates people spend on their smartphones while driving, we can only imagine the decimation we would cause if crank windows still exist.

Manual Door Locks

Another member of our staff recently bought his daughter a 2017 Chevy Cruze. When the battery died in her key fob, she called him in a panic, thinking she was stranded. He had to explain to her that you could use the key to unlock the door manually instead of using a button.

Younger generations may not know how to manually unlock a car. Way before the keyless entry was invited, door locks were also manual. You would have to unlock a driver’s door with a key, then climb in and reach over to open the passenger door before automatic locks. The struggle was real.

Manual Door Mirrors

Remember when you had to ask your passenger to adjust the door mirror on their side? Move it to the right, down, now to the left. Perfect. Now the convenient electronic joystick makes life a little easier.

Cassette Player

If you were to ask any twenty-something what a cassette is, most of them probably don’t know or have never used one. Here and there though, some millennials enjoy collecting records and even cassettes.

Smaller cassette tapes were paradise after eight-track tapes, let alone a cassette inside a car. By the 1990s, most cars offered a radio that played both cassettes and CD. The last vehicle model in the United States that included a factory-installed cassette player was the 2010 Lexus SC 430.

Although they were a pain to rewind, showing a box of cassette tapes to your friends has the same impact as a millennial sharing a playlist. A little piece of your soul sat in that box. The younger generations definitely are missing out on that feeling of opening a cassette and taking out the album art for the first time.

Carburetors

Most car manufacturers stopped using carburetors in the late 1980s. Newer technology such as fuel injectors proved to be more efficient whether it was Quadrajet, Tri-Power, Stromberg, Holley, three-barrel, or four. No matter the type, they all required adjustments eventually.

Many of Original Air's upgrade kits include mounts for a standard, single-barrel carburetor (non-Shaker Hood) Small Block engine that was originally equipped with factory A/C.

CB Radio

CB or citizens-band radios quickly grew into popularity in the late 1970s. Many of the classic car movies heavily influenced its rise to fame. Although a trend, some CB radios became the factory options on some models such as Cordoba. As the Bandit would say, ten-four.

Choke

Many of us remember using the choke on a cold morning to get the engine running. The choke valve restricted airflow to enrich the fuel-air mixture while starting the engine. Once the choke restricts air from the carburetor, it reduces pressure causing more fuel to be pushed from the main jet into the combustion chamber. When the engine is warm, reopening the choke valve restores the carburetor to its normal state. Later carburetors in the 80s started to do this process automatically until carburetors phased out entirely.

T-Tops

As another 70s trend popularized by Smokey and the Bandit, these stylish removable roof panels became the standard on every Corvette coupe from 1968 to 1982. Ford and Chrysler copied Corvette shortly after.

Once guys named Vinny cruised up and down the Jersey Shore with their T tops down all throughout the 80s, we’re somewhat happy they died off with the fourth-generation Camaro and Firebird.

Velour Seats

In the 70s and 80s, you could find velour seats in anything from Honda Preludes to Cadillacs. Sitting on this stuff was like sitting on sponges. Regardless of the temperature outside, it only takes a couple of minutes to start sweating, and only a couple of minutes later would it take for the velour to absorb it all. Gross.

Track Seat Belts

The 1990s seatbelt regulations invited these manually buckled lap belts paired with a motorized shoulder belt beauty. After you closed the door, the shoulder belt motored up a track next to the door opening and against your middle. They became a laughingstock in pop culture because they were prone to breaking. These irritating belts marred some pretty good cars like the Mitsubishi Station Turbo and the Ferrari Testarossa, so the whole idea was scrapped not too long after.

Car Phone

You were a nobody in 1987 if your car didn’t feature a mobile phone between the center armrest or next to the shifter. Most Gen Zs and millennials are finally cool once they get their first phone, regardless if it was smart or could flip. In 1946, the first car phones connected to the public switched Telephone Network in the United States. Not until the 1970s through the 1990s the car phone became popular. Most of the time, the phone didn’t work. But you still donned the Yuppie or Preppie uniform.

Every car has a story. Did your classic get stolen during its restoration? Did you almost total the car back when you were learning how to drive? Do you have memories of using certain car parts that are no longer used today? Share your story with Original Air today by commenting below or submitting a reader ride. You might even get a chance to be featured in our newsletter.

I purchased this unrestored dreamboat in the spring of 2015. My wife was suffering from cancer and passed away just a few months later but we got the opportunity to drive it to a big car meet before that. After that, I overhauled the engine, refinished the paint, and did some detailing. Now, I will try to get the factory-installed air conditioning working with some help from Original Air.

The Original Air components I have in my care are the condenser, hoses, compressor, switch, drier, expansion valve, evaporator, and control.

As classics slowly begin emerging from their winter nap, you may notice a certain musty odor. However, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s your AC. The older the classic and the longer the storage stay, the likelier your car can smell. These smells can range from cigarette smoke back from the 70s to mold spores due to poor storage. Here’s how ozone generators can fix the stench.

If it’s not the AC

To understand how these can fix the stink, we’ll have to explain how ozone generators work. They basically bleach the air. Ozone generators break apart oxygen molecules using electric discharge. These single atoms then attach to oxygen molecules making them O₃ or ozone.

Because these generators can break apart oxygen molecules, they can thus break apart organic compounds suspended throughout the air. In other words, ozone reacts with odor molecules by transmitting the extra molecule. Once the molecule is transferred, its chemical makeup changes thus changing the compound that once smelled.

If you choose to use an ozone generator, please remember to evacuate the space. Ozone is not oxygen which means it can harm you once inhaled. Give it enough time for the ozone to revert back to oxygen before using the car which generally means a couple of hours.

Many sources discuss the dangers of using ozone. However, those taking the right precautions can avoid any negative consequences. To give you better context, we consider carbon monoxide to be dangerous and rightfully so contributing to 2500 deaths a year. However, we don’t think about it much when we walk down the street next to running cars.

If it is the AC

Common smells coming from the AC include gas, mold, dirt, and sweet scents. If it smells like gas and you think it’s coming from your AC, it should be a strong smell. Gas-like smells from the AC can be minor or major issues. Sometimes the gas can be leftover from filling up your car or it can be anything from a gas leak to an engine issue.

If it smells moldy, it could just be because of your car’s age. Over time, as air goes through the system, the water that is used can turn into mold. To prevent this, make sure you don’t blast your AC. This way, you produce less water. Lastly, check your AC to confirm no leaks or other issues exist. Older cars can smell dirty. If the scent comes from your AC, you may have neglected to clean your air filters. Filters can collect harmful pollutants, mold, dust mites, and other dirt that cause foul smells.

Although sweet smells can bug you less, they can mean more damage. Many times, these smells are an issue with the cooling system since it uses coolant and antifreeze. This sweet scent can be toxic and should be addressed immediately.

If that old smell can't seem to go away you may need to think about restoring your car's AC. If you need help with your restortation of your AC, Orginal Air can help.   Original Air can restore nearly any car air conditioning part from your 1950's through 1990's classic car plus newer models. If you don't see the serivice part you need, contact us! We'd like to help.

I found the car for sale on Craigslist in Northern Indiana. I took the front end of the car a part rebuilt the engine, transmission and sent the stock AC parts to Original Air for a rebuild. They did great work!

Original Air components I have on my car are the condenser, hoses, compressor, drier, and expansion valve. 

The decision between going with synthetic versus conventional oil is an age-old debate. But what’s the real difference between them when it comes to your engine? Synthetic oil is made up of artificial chemical compounds while conventional is refined crude oil. We’re breaking down the explanations behind why you should pay more for synthetic.

Viscosity Index

In physics, viscosity describes a fluid’s resistance to flow. When an object flows through oil, for example, the oil resists the flowing object and the velocity the object is creating through its motion. Several different factors can affect the flow and resistance such as particles suspended in the liquid. The change in the viscosity due to a temperature change is called the viscosity index (VI).

Today, we’ll be looking at how the viscosity of the oils changes with temperature. Something with a low VI changes a lot with temperature while something with a high VI has less of a change. The lesser the change, the better.

If we look at the molecules that make up the conventional oil, we notice that these molecules vary in size, shape, and weight compared to the synthetic. This results in a low VI. At low temperatures, the larger molecules resisting the flow cause conventional oil to be thicker. However, due to their varying sizes, smaller molecules exist as well that make conventional oil thinner at higher temperatures.

Synthetic oil molecules are much more uniform which causes a higher VI. This means less change with temperature. So, at low temperatures, you have better flow due to less thickening, and at higher temperatures, you have a better flow due to less oil thinning out. Ultimately an oil that maintains its viscosity at higher temperatures means better wear protection.

Volatility

In chemistry, volatility describes how readily a liquid vaporizes. Some oil can evaporate once it is heated and thus lost. You want as much of that oil to remain a liquid as possible. There is an industry standardized test called the Noack Volatility test that heats oils at 250 degrees Celsius for one hour. Air flows over oils catching any particles being vaporized. After the hour, the liquid’s mass is measured.

With conventional oil, due to its many smaller molecules scattered throughout the liquid, it’s more prone to evaporation and thus losing mass. Plus, what you’re left with is many larger molecules making the oil very thick at lower temperatures. With synthetic, not as much is vaporized, so at lower temperatures, flow remains mostly the same.

So what? This is a quite the afternoon experiment all to buy some crummy oil. Fortunately, this test is on the back of oil containers. Look for ILSAC GF-6 which indicates it passed the volatility test and didn’t lose more than 15% of its mass.

Deposits

Additives can change the VI. To thicken the oil, you use viscosity modifiers. With synthetic oil, you use fewer of them than for conventional oil because your viscosity baseline begins lower. With these additives, you can get your conventional IV to line up equally to synthetic.

However, viscosity modifiers have very large molecules – 200 to 2,000 times the size of what is considered a large molecule in conventional oil. These are susceptible to creating deposits in the piston rings causing them to lock in place. Locked pistons can cause oil control loss, blowby, and cylinder damage. Because synthetics use fewer additives, they are less susceptible to deposits forming in these high-temperature areas.

Classic car owners can worry less about small, turbo-sized engines, a new trend in the industry that cause more heat in a smaller area. While they may be all rated for the same viscosity, synthetic still can remain thicker at a higher temperature.

Oxidation

A couple of months ago, we talked about how automakers fought corrosion. Rust happens when a metal gives up its electrons to another piece of metal willing to receive it. Typically, a liquid, otherwise known as an electrode, facilitates this transfer. This is also known as oxidation.

Something similar happens with motor oil: oxidation will react with it and change it. This forms a sludge-like substance and makes the molecules heavier. Heat accelerates this oxidation process. When looking at conventional oil, you see more unsaturated molecules.

These molecules have ring structures and double bonds that are susceptible to oxygen coming into higher temperatures, attaching to the molecule, and growing them in size. This causes the oil to become thick forcing you to change the oil.

With a synthetic base oil, its saturated molecules do not have ring structures or double bonds which remain stable at high temperatures. Although not impossible, it’s much more difficult for oxygen to get into them. To prolong this process, you either need a stable base oil as with the case of synthetic oil or antioxidant additives that fights the oxidation.

I purchased it in 2004 and wanted to take this car on long road trips without breaking down. I really wanted a 1981 because it was the last year for the stick shifts.

I ended up replacing the motor with a crate engine, 5-speed transmission, and changed the rear end gear to a 3.55. The car was originally a cream color, but I repainted it black. I also placed ZO6 wheels on it and many other upgrades. And I actually just gutted all air components and replaced everything new.

Original Air components I have on my car are the condenser, compressor, switch, accumulator, and evaporator.