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VIR Eliminators: What are they and do I need one?

Tim with Original Air explains what a VIR does and why a VIR eliminator may make sense for your factory ac equipped classic GM car.

Reader Ride: 1977 Pontiac Trans AM 400Z

Original Air customer, Dave Barron, submitted his 1977 Pontiac Trans AM 400Z that we are featuring this month.

Purchased the car in AZ. in 1984 (spent its whole life there) brought back to MI. in 1985 and stored inside for 24 years. In 2009 / 10 we had a complete frame off restoration done, to as close to OEM as possible. ALL body metal is original, numbers matching, drove it to the first stop of the resto. Car is drove by my wife in the summer only runs like new currently has little over 2K miles on it. Saved and reused all original AC components with acception of heat exchanger, with the new modern refrigerant it needed a different one, works great all work was upgraded by Florida Air and still works great today. Many additional little details, to much to place here, suffice to say it is virtually original, and people video her driving it.

All About POA Valves

The factory air systems from the 60s into the 70s included what is called a POA valve to regulate the flow of refrigerant in the AC system.  Tim breaks down some of the various valves used over time, along with restoration options for these valves.

5 Less Common Detailing Tips

5 Less Common Car Detailing Tips 


There are a lot of ways to detail a car, and there are a lot of products to help you do so. If you're a classic car owner, chances are you've been gladly making yours shine for years with your own set of routines and products. Well there are a few extra tips we'd like to give you that you may not have thought of before. 


1. Clean The Top Of The Windows.

At some point during your cleaning, roll down the windows just a little bit and clean the very tops of them. Not doing so can result in smudges and you’ll have no idea where they came from. 


2. Treat Your Trim

Your trim can look better with a specialized treatment for plastic. Use a plastic restoration product for all your trim before waxing and you’ll notice quite a difference up close and on the overall appearance of your ride.


3. Brush Your Carpets

If you don’t have a vacuum accessory with a brush on it, you should replace that friction with a nylon brush. This helps loosen up the carpet fibers and get all that hard to reach dirt out. The amount of that hard to reach dirt can amount to more than you can imagine.


4. Use 2 Water Buckets

One bucket needs to be your regular mixture of water and cleaner, the other just water in it. This is so you don’t put all that dirt from your car back into the bucket when rinsing your cleaning. This is a very common mistake.


5. Read The Directions!

Always take a minute to read the directions of your products. Some products work much more efficiently if the directions are followed correctly. That little bit always counts when you’re striving for perfection.

5 Of The Most Sought After Classic Muscle Cars

5 Of The Most Sought After Classic Muscle Cars


Muscle cars, we love them and so have many people before us. We took a look at what some of the most sought after ones on the market are nowadays. Here's what we found for muscle car models ranging from the 60's to early 70's. 


1. The Oldsmobile 4-4-2 (1971) Specs: 455-cid V-8, an under-stressed, big-port engine with tug-boat torque




2. Shelby GT 500KR (Mid to late 1960's)  Specs: 8-cyl. 428cid/335hp 4bbl Cobra Jet




3. Chevrolet Chevelle SS/LS (Late 1960's) Specs: The 450 horsepower LS6 was the most powerful engine around in 1970. 780 cfm Holley carburetor





4. Plymouth Barracuda (1970-1971) Specs: 7.2-liter engine 390 HP





5. Pontiac GTO (Late 1960's) Specs: ohv V8, 400 cid (4.12x3.75) 370 bhp



Reader Ride: Jim Centorbi's 1970 Chevelle SS 396

I purchased this car in 1976 from the original owner in North Royalton, Ohio. I drove it through my senior year in high school and with a heavy heart I had to sell it in the fall of 1977 when I went away to school. 

In January of 2012 I was contacted by a buyer who had found the car in a barn in Ashtabula, Ohio where it had been sitting since 1980, it was still black with gold stripes like I had painted it in 1977. 

I purchased the car back and began a frame off restoration with the help of my 14 year old son.  We have restored it to its former glory and back to the original color of Shadow Gray.  The car is all original sheet metal except for the hood and front fenders.  There car was solid and needed no patch work done. 

This car is a true SS396 not a clone.  The engine is a date correct ‘CE’ block, 3969854 casting 402 cubic inch.  The transmission is a Turbo 400 that was built by “Transmission by Bruce” in Parma, Ohio who also built the original transmission.  The rear end is the original 12 bolt positraction.  The interior is the original dash, console and door panels.  The car was a non A/C car but since I moved to Arizona I wanted to have A/C, I purchased an original A/C unit out of a 72 Chevelle and modified the firewall by making a template.  I then made a plate to cover the existing hole for the heater box and attached it to the firewall with panel adhesive.

We Want To See Your Ride!

We are always hearing about cool restoration and modified car projects from our customers, and would love to see and share those factory equipped A/C cars.  We have added a form to our website so that you can describe and upload pictures of your ride so that we may share with our customers worldwide. So get your car cleaned up, grab a camera, and send us your best shots!



Click Here! To Submit Your Ride

Ever looked inside an RV2 AC compressor?

The RV2 air conditioning compressor is one of the biggest, heaviest cooling units that were mostly found on the early Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth family of cars.  What makes it cool is that the internals resemble a mini-version of a V-twin motor.  Watch us tear down an RV2 compressor and give you an idea of how we go about restoring this classic workhorse.



First we wanna go ahead and start off and make sure the compressor does full rotation. Just to make sure that it is a core that is buildable. So, this here, this one's spinning all around so we know it's gonna be a good core for the most part. So we'll go ahead and just remove the clutch. So we'll go ahead and remove this bolt, be a half inch bolt on the face. Usually you can get a brass drift so you don't damage the shaft. Just give it a couple taps and the clutch will just come right off. Move the wires here in the back. And then we'll go ahead and we're gonna remove the manifold. Just tap the manifold off, the gasket holds it on pretty tight.

Underneath the manifold is the EPR valve along with a spring. So if you're gonna remain with an R12 compressor, it's gonna have an EPR valve, it's gonna use that. If you're gonna go 134A, we're actually gonna remove the EPR valve and we'll actually go into a thermostat system. That's gonna make the compressor turn off and on just like more of a modern day car. Alright, we're gonna go ahead and remove the EPR valve. From there we'll take the field coil off. Usually there's going to be contamination or it's gonna be some sort of low oil. They're very sensitive on the crank and there is no rings like you'd have on a car. So it's just the rods actually connect straight to the crank itself.

The oil pump in the rear, it's just a spring with a ball. As the gears cycle, it just actually pumps. So if those fail, typically what happen the ball itself will go out of round and prevent it from oil coming up. So we definitely want to check that. We'll go ahead and remove the brackets. Here we'll go ahead and remove the actually baseplate. This is where the oil pump actually sits and this is actually gonna show you the back of the inside of the compressor. Usually when a compressor does fail due to oil, this will be the pump here. You'll see the ball, it will actually go out of round. It's a rubber ball. If the ball goes out of round, then the oil can slide through it and it won't pick any oil up. You definitely want to make sure those are still round. If not, we will replace them. We use a ball bearing, so we go back to get rid of rubber and we go more of a steel bearing, a bearing ball. So what I end up doing is more and more getting things so everything else will fail. You wanna go ahead and just check everything, make sure everything's good inside. You should have play back and forward, nothing up and down. Go ahead and drain the oil real quick. Then we're gonna look for any contaminants inside the oil as well.

This compressor here is fairly nasty so definitely, definitely time for a good cleaning out. We'll go ahead and remove the valves. Let's see how those look. This is the valve plate here. These right here are the revalves that sit under the valve plate. You see here, this is what we want to look for. Underneath, I'm not sure if you can actually see it. I might have to remove it so we can see a little better. There is goes. So ya, a set of revalves here. And then underneath there's also another set. That's what determines all the suction and discharge.

So on this particular compressor, it is here. As the piston's coming up, it's pushing air out of the top, which is gonna channel into this tube here and out. That's where your refrigerant will come in at. And vice versa when a piston goes down, it's actually gonna suck the refrigerant in through here and out of this chamber using this revalve. We'll go ahead and remove the oil gear in the back. I'll need a 7/16's. Here's a portion of the oil pump where the gears are. And usually if the ball is out of round, then the gears also, they're gonna be damaged. So we'll have to replace the whole pump if that's the case. So you're gonna look for any kind of damage here, make sure everything is nice and smooth. And we'll go ahead and remove the pistons themselves. And then we wanna also check the actual cap. Look for any kind of wear on the cap. This one here is pretty clean. Then push down on the piston and should just pop right out. The piston's resting on the rod. You're gonna do the same thing. We're gonna check the cap. The bearing in general looks alright. These don't have bearings so it's just aluminum straight to the crank. So any kind of oil, any kind of oil loss, anything like that is gonna cause problems. Just tear into the aluminum. See there is still nice cross hatching on the cylinders.

This is a complete tear down of the RV2 Compressor. So if you guys have any questions, feel free to give us a call or go ahead and reach us at originalair.com.

Reader Ride: 1968 Ford Mustang GT 302

Original Air UK customer, Richard Tracey, submitted his classic 1968 Ford Mustang GT 302 and like his sweet ride!

"After a long search from a friend in Georgia, I imported this highland green fastback in July 2014. Always wanted the 68 fastback, nothing comes as close as the fastback.

The chrome sets it off and the highland green is perfect colour.  The car is all original.  No new sheet metal to be had.  The selectaire needs rebuilt, but I have time on my hands to do this.  The original hoses got burnt from the engine heat, so replacing them was to keep the look of the engine bay correct.

This J Code is fully of optional extras, including FM Stereo radio that still works, centre console, deluxe interior, tinted glass, tachometer and GT.  For the UK rules I had to put in original shoulder belts which I sourced from a friend in Virginia."

Do you know your body type?

Ever have someone at a car show ask you your body type? If you weren’t in the know, you may have felt a little awkward. Don’t worry, as we are going to give you a quick primer on how to know your body types, starting with Dodge, Chrysler and Plymouth (also known as Mopar to those in the know).



The A-body referred to compact cars with rear wheel drive running from 1960-1977. They consisted of models such as the Dodge Dart and the Plymouth Barracuda, Duster & Valiant.



Applying the mid-size cars, the B-body was very popular and were typical of 1962-1979 years of production. Your muscle era cars such as the Dodge Charger, Plymouth Fury & Road Runner were built and marketed on the B-body. Although the styling differences varied between Dodge and Plymouth models, the cars were otherwise mechanically identical.



From 1965-1978, Chrysler’s C-Body platform was dedicated to full-size cars with rear wheel drive. Later year Plymouth Fury/Gran Fury and Chrysler and Dodge wagons represented the C-Body, with the C-Body Polara kicking off the series.


The first and second generation Imperial from 1957-1966 was know as the D-Body. It was Chrysler’s top of the line model and completely distinct with its own body class.



Although referenced in the 80s as the extended version of the Chrysler K platform, the E-Body to muscle enthusiasts refers to the 1970-74 Dodge Challenger and Plymouth Barracuda.